Disaster, then hope.

I had a feeling that this would happen eventually. I wouldn't say I was expecting it, but either way it happened.

After getting off the plane, chatting with some other backpackers (including one guy who was, incredibly, cycling all the way from India to Beijing), and generally making plans about where to go to first. I went outside and decided to look for an cash machine, as has been my usual first procedure in every new place I've arrived in, in these last 10 months. It's not cost effctive to withdraw money in other countries and have it converted as you lose a large amount in conversion every time. It's better to have a cash machine handle it, and do a spot conversion from sterling... Even better my building society, Nationwide, does not charge for overseas withdrawels.

So anyway I head for the cash machine, after fighting my way through hoards of touts, mentioning the usual things to tourists, I ask to withdraw 400000 dong (about 12 pounds, enough to last me a few days) The machine pauses for a moment then flashes up in big red capital letters "CARD WITHELD" and then "Thank you for using an ANZ cash machine, we hope to see you again soon"

I'm in BIG trouble. I had already used my back-up travellers cheques a few weeks ago when I found myself in a remote area with no cash machines, and needed money to get food and water then. My only other card has expired since I've been away and so I have no way of accesing my other bank account.

So I'm at the airport, absolutely no money and so that means, no hotel, no transport, no food, no water and no way of calling anyone for help. Panicing in a situation like this will get you nowhere, and so I keep my head, and remember that there is always a way out... every single problem I have encountered along the way in this journey has been solvable in one way or another... There has not been one incident where I have given up completely, and it sure as bloody hell was NOT going to happen now!

I tried a few security guards who shrug me off with the usual "can't speak English" Even when I insisted it was an emergency (which they seemed to understand, but laughed at) and indicated that I wanted to talk to a manager (because they're more likely to be able to speak english) I try a currency exchange desk, who, as soon as they realise I have no money, try to get rid of me as quick as possible. I try the airport information desk, who helpfully look up the phone number of the Bank who took my card, and then with a smile tell me to call them on a payphone. When I give them a sarcastic look and indicate quite strongly that I have absolutely-no-money-at-all. If I have no money, how am I supposed to use a phone box?! The fake smile continues and he tells me he can't help me further.

I have been wandering around the airport for almost 3 hours now, still with no progress. A taxi driver approaches me asking if I want a taxi, and, barely controlling myself, I grumble that I'd rather have the police. But to my surprise, the taxi driver, instead of vanishing, comes closer looking genuinely worried. He asks me what the problem is, and instantly offers me his mobile phone. After phoning the bank in question, they ask for my details, and say they'll get back to me in "a few days". Thinking that in this situation the only ones who can offer me help and advice would be Her Majesty's Representitives at the British Consulate in Ho Chi Minh. I say this to the taxi driver, and he too suddenly starts calling up directory enquiries trying to find the number. I must say that this showing of pure good human nature was a total surprise, as I never expected such support from a total stranger.

It's a shame that my own country wasn't as helpful however. After getting through to them they basically said that all they could do was let me use their phone to call the UK. I told them I had no way of getting to them anyway, as I not only had no map but also no money to pay for transport there, as they were over 7KM away on the otherside of the city, and I had a 15KG backpack on. I stressed that I was only 19 and literally completely helpless, and they told me that it wasn't serious enough, I asked them what would be serious enough, and they said death, arrest or injury of a British Citizen. I said asked them for advice and the gist of it was "we can't give you advice" I was thinking, "well if I get arrsted because I can't pay for my hotel will you help me then?"

So after this... I start sizing up benches at the airport, thinking the only way to get through this now is to live in the airport for two days and drink water from the taps in the toilet. Chao would arrive on Sunday and then I could ask her for help, money for a phonebox so I could call home and arrange a money transfer.

The Taxi driver realiases what I'm doing and he tells me to wait, and makes several phone calls. I tell him not to bother as it isn't fair to ask him to go out of the way for a total stranger. He doesn't seem bothered by this and eventually a cab arrives, and he tells me that it will go to a hotel and that I can pay the cab fare later when I get money. I took the man's hand and gave it the firmist shake I could manage I looked him in the eyes and gave him the most sincere "Thank You" I've ever given. I hope I see him again.

I arrived at the hotel and explained my situation to the staff there. Unfortunately their English really is about as good as my Vietnamese, and so after acting out what had happened to me, they instantly asked if I wanted food, I told them it's fine I can just drink water for two days and eat on Sunday. We agreed that I would open a tab and that I would pay it as soon as possible. I make frantic emails home and a few phone calls using their free internet. Eventually I arrange a money transfer through my parents. Who I can't thank enough for their support, without that money I would be completely unable to continue, and would most likely have ended up arrested eventually.

Now I'm in limbo. All banks in Vietnam are always closed Saturday and Sunday. Chao arrives on Sunday so I've had to make an embarrising climbdown from my original plan to meet her at the airport and instead emailed her the hotel address so she can meet me here. On Monday I should be able to pick up the money and settle my debts. Although to be honest, I owe the kind people at this hotel here more than a debt of money.

That first night, I sat in my room and the clock read 00:25 I was thinking that it might be time to turn over and go to sleep, when the phone rang. I picked up the phone and it was the night security guard. He wanted me to come downstairs. Upon arriving in the lobby he seemed to gesturing whether I was hungry or not. I shook my head (despite the fact in reality I was starving) He didn't believe me obviously and 5 minutes later returned with a plastic carton and gave it to me. Inside was a portion of fried rice and beef. Because I couldn't thank him properly, I went upstairs and got my camera, and instead sat and spent the next hour sharing photos with him. It was a very human exchange.

The ironic thing is this happens three weeks before I'm due to be heading home, using cash machines has served me brilliantly for this whole trip from start (almost) to finish they have provided a fantastic service. They almost make other ways of transferring money redundant. Except when you lose your only card of course!!!

This is a thank you to all the people who have helped me beyond all measure these last few days.

If this has taught me anything, it's "always have more than one back up!"