What a week

What a week. That’s all I can use to describe the New Year period. It’s been one hell of a roller coaster ride in so many ways. It started with the biggest surprise. The day before Christmas Eve I got an email from a close Japanese friend of mine, who I have known for some time… she said she wanted to go Christmas shopping with me on Christmas Eve in Nagoya. For the culturally uninitiated it should be noted that Christmas Eve shopping is not a last minute violent melee for presents like it is at home. Christmas Eve is treated more like Christmas day and needless to say the atmosphere in the bustling metropolis of Nagoya was breathtaking. Christmas decorations everywhere, people dressed up in costumes, Christmas music playing from every shop, it was truly amazing. In typical Japanese eccentric style, a real organ had been wheeled into one of the department stores and was playing loud and somewhat eerily gothic Christmas tunes, to the delight of the shoppers. But the biggest surprise of the day is that I went into Nagoya a single man, and left it as a couple. It was like something from Love Actually, perhaps it was the festive spirit, I’m not sure… But it was certainly a Christmas I will never forget. (Richard Curtis would have a field day if he was reading this, you got that Richard? I’m waiting on your phonecall)
After the happiness of Christmas Eve, it was tempered somewhat by a loss of my internet connection on Christmas Day. I had been hoping to talk with my family via webcam on Christmas Day, and maybe even open presents on the webcam, to get something of an idea of what the atmosphere was like at home. Well unfortunately because of the lack of internet that never happened. But I did get a few phone calls throughout the day which cheered me up immensely, it’s a very sad experience to be alone in your apartment on Christmas Day. But that’s what happened and it can’t be helped. Later on I did open the presents, and I have to say mum, you haven’t lost your touch. The presents are all a good laugh and sat very well with the decorations you sent out, my Japanese friends have been particularly fond of the sumo wrestlers and many a Yen has been lost gambling on which one will win. I am extremely grateful for all the gifts I have received. I know I may not have been able to express that too well on the phone, but they really do mean a lot to me. That goes to everyone who has sent me something, I don’t want to list you all, because I know you are probably reading this… but although I may not have been able to thank you personally, it does mean the absolute world to me and I thank you from the bottom of my heart. I honestly will try and send something back, but as I may have already mentioned it’s quite complicated and I am only on Volunteers “pay”.
Regardless Christmas Day ended nicely with a meal at my friend’s house where we all got together for some Western Style cheer and celebrations. The next few days following this were reasonably uneventful as I was making the last preparations for the journey to Tokyo, and squeezed in the last few working days of 2007. I had decided to organise pretty much every aspect of the trip myself, that way the less people organising the less things that can go wrong, and as a plus I could definitely do the things I wanted to do. I told my travel mate Craig (20, Canadian) to worry about his bus ticket and phone and that I would do the rest.
The itinerary ended up being really interesting. Travel by night bus to Tokyo from Nagoya, meet in Shinjuku, stay in a hotel the first night, No hotel on the second night (it was New Years Eve, who wants to sleep on New Year’s Eve?) Capsule hotel on the third night, and budget backpackers hotel/hostel for the fourth, fifth and sixth night. Amazingly almost everything went to plan, aside from spending a small king’s ransom in locker fees for our manly backpacks.
One of the things I love most about these kinds of trips is the kind of people you bump into, and how odd it is that your paths have crossed on your respective journeys, throughout the world and life. As everyone who knows me can vouch, I can talk for England, which is both an asset and a weakness. On this trip I met a Chinese woman (中国人？そですか！), who had been living in Japan and taking her first trip on a night bus, that situation was strange was we were both conversing in Japanese, a language that to both of us was not our first, and all I could think was that it was so amazing that two different cultures could be united through another language that was not their own. But then I’m a dull Linguist, so I would find that interesting. I met two Lithuanians and a Brazilian who spoke flawless English, but were in fact studying business at a Tokyo University, and I was surprised to find I spoke more Japanese than they did. This seems to be the way of the future, English will lose it’s identity as purely being the language of “the anglosphere” and become an international “standard” language that everyone can use to communicate with, regardless of language origin. (aaargh getting sidetracked linguistically again… bad David) But most fun of all were three American tourists me and Craig met wondering around Shinjuku skyscraper district in the early hours of the morning. Two guys and a girl from Arizona, they were the funniest trio in the world so much fun, and we basically spent much of the trip as a group of five tearing up Tokyo.
The most interesting thing about meeting tourists however was it showed us just how far we have come in our four months here already. I was asked odd questions like “why are all these people wearing face masks? Is there a SARS outbreak or something?” And I had to explain that this was nothing of the sort, but normal Japanese behaviour to wear a face mask when one has a cold, as a form of common courtesy towards others. But although this behaviour seems perfectly reasonable and normal to me now, I struck me how odd this must look to someone just off the boat. Another interesting thing that happened was watching them struggle with ordering food and navigating the subway system. It seems, despite how poor my Japanese is, even a little can get you a very long way.
On the subject of language, I’ve had some interesting comments from people about learning language abroad. A few of my friends have suggested that I will be fluent in Japanese by the time I get back, because I live here. This is complete nonsense. Language is a complicated thing, unlike I first assumed, it cannot be simply “absorbed” from the environment you live in. Unless you make a concentrated effort to study a language, it will not just come to you. I found that my Japanese only really started to progress once I made an effort to study a few chapters from a Japanese language book once in a while. And of course there is absolutely no substitute for a good teacher. Unfortunately because of work timetables, I’ve been unable to attend many of the lessons on offer, and instead my Japanese is mostly self taught, despite that the teachers here are really excellent and good friends of mine. What living abroad does give you however is the ultimate environment to practice a language. Your target language is written everywhere and everyone speaks it, so you’ll have no problems finding a native speaker who can give you some pointers and put you in the right direction. The situation is of course different if you already know the fundamentals of a language, in that case you can build on the supports and go a long way quite quickly. My problem was (and still is) that I didn’t know the fundamentals. The next time I go to a country for the first time, I’ll try to be able to say more than “My name is David” when I first arrive. Although that being said, my early days of work were marked with long periods of silence, where I was unable to say anything at all. Nowadays I can talk about a fair bit. Although my grammar is pretty messed up. And I’m pretty sure a lot of it sounds like “Me, week last Tokyo visit good yes?” It’s better than sitting silent. I can always improve. Of course the Japanese are so polite, even if it sounds god awful they wouldn’t say. I have been complemented on my accent however, which is nice.
Anyway (I’m really not good at this getting sidetracked thing) New Year was an unforgettable experience. After much debate during the day about exactly which New Year party, out of hundreds, we should go to… We ended up on the streets of Shibuya (A very fun district of Tokyo) at 23:30 on the 31st of December 2007 with no plan. I remembered vaguely that last year on TV I had seen a big New Year celebration in Tokyo somewhere, but I wasn’t sure exactly where. I had a sneaking suspicion that it was the big square we were in a few hours previously but wasn’t sure. Feeling we had nothing to lose, I decided to usher the group in that general direction, realising that if I’d got this wrong, they would probably kill me. Fortunately however, after a few minutes the crowds began to pick up, and we very quickly found ourselves in the middle of a very large crowd of very excited (some very drunk) people, as the minutes ticked closer to midnight the crowd began to grow and grow, and very soon, even traffic couldn’t move for the number of people filling the square. Now this is not a small square as you can see from the pictures and video, this place was massive. The atmosphere was electric and unlike anything I’d experienced up till then. People were dancing, singing, jumping up and down, cheering, crowd surfing (including myself). Then out of nowhere, “10… 9…8…” Well as you can see on the video, it was truly unbelievable. Oddly enough, the crowd began to gradually disperse almost as soon as the moment of truth was over. A fantastic night. We drank and ate and were merry until the wee hours of next lunchtime.
Although this is not the traditional Japanese way to ring in the New Year, I thought that we would be getting enough “cultural” experiences over the next few days, that we needed something a bit more unusual to break it up.
After spending much of the first day of the New Year in a zombie like trance, as evening drew near we went to our second Hotel “Capsule Inn Akihabra” Located in the mental “Electric Town”. A capsule hotel, for those of you who are wondering what this is all about, is a Japanese speciality. It’s a hotel, where you have only a man-sized capsule as your room. Despite how horrible this sounds, and my mother comparing it to a morgue (pretty close actually, just less dead), I actually found it to be a really fantastic experience and something really different, as I’m sure the photos show. The wash facilities are really great too. Japanese style which means, open plan sat down showers, and everyone bollock naked when they go in. It did cause me great amusement when I saw one European man enter the shower and bath room in his underwear to the stern gaze of many other Japanese and myself, to see him sheepishly turn around and return a few moments later, trying to get to the shower without showing his front side. Naked public bathing was a weird concept to me at first, but it’s grown on me to the extent, that I wouldn’t have it any other way.
The next day we experienced something I’ve wanted to do for some time, and that was see the Emperor Akihito himself (son of the infamous Hirohito, who was still on throne as recently as 1989). After much panic in changing hotels to the wonderful “Hotel New Koyo” and rushing around trying not miss the speech, getting on the wrong train and going in circles for several hours. We finally made it to the Imperial Palace at about 13:30ish. I was expecting to have to fight my way through hoards of patriotic Japanese, but in reality it was a very organised, calm and professional event. Near the entrance, to my delight mini Japanese flags were being handed out, the purpose of which I was not entirely sure of at this point… but regardless approached the man who quite happily handed out two, one for me and one for Craig. After a very civil and friendly security check, the dreaded moment arrived… I had to suffer a pat down by a beautiful Japanese policewoman… oh the humiliation. I don’t think I looked at her face once, I just grinned inanely at Craig, to make him wish he had left some change in his pocket too.
After the fun and games a serious tone resumed, I began to marvel at the exterior architecture of this most private of places, in the middle of one of the most impersonal cities in the world. I also felt extremely privileged to be able to visit this place. After walking through many beautiful gardens and passing by the Ancient Edo Castle, we found ourselves in a large open courtyard besides the imperial palace, which was a stunningly beautiful building, and eclectic blend of old and new. A small balcony was visible along with a pane of bulletproof glass to keep the Emperor safe. After a wait of about 25 minutes the courtyard pretty much filled with people. And the great man himself and a few other members of the adult imperial family, stepped out. Me and Craig had pondered what the crowd’s reaction would be. Would it be loud and brash? We thought unlikely… Would everyone bow? We thought that would be the most likely situation.
But instead there was a sort of muted cheer that sounded almost like a vacuum cleaner being switched on, as if everyone wanted to cheer really loud, but was just about holding it in, or gasping with awe. Now we found out what the flags we for, the muted cheer was almost immediately covered up by the roaring sound of over a thousand Japanese flags being furiously waved in approval. I turned to Craig, and he gave me a look that said “go for it” so the two of us joined in. I also took a moment to take in the expressions of those around us in the crowd. It was peculiar; almost everyone there looked extremely happy and had an enormous smile on their faces, as if someone had done them some enormous favour. After about a minute or two of this, an announcement came through saying that the emperor wished to speak. The crowd was immediately silent. His voice carried an unusual tone and a sense of authority I rarely hear. It really was a special kind of voice. Despite this the speech was barely under a minute long. Translated it essentially means, “I am glad you are all here today, I wish for peace in Asia and throughout the world” I think the video captures the atmosphere really well. After that the crowd began to file away.
Later that evening both me and Craig discussed what all this meant for the figurehead head of state, both here and throughout the world. Craig had some interesting opinions, Canada as a commonwealth nation, still holds the Queen as it’s head of state, she still appears on currency and performs many ceremonial duties, despite being no political influence. We gradually came to the same conclusion. In a modern world, it is definitely right that these outdated institutions should hold no real power. It’s easy to dismiss them as meaningless, however I think it is essential to maintain these traditions, as at the core they are a part of a national identity for some people. In a world rapidly globalising, identity is a precious thing that cannot be traded in stocks and shares, or given away in business deals.
For me I think this event was the highlight of the trip. The next day we visited Meijjingumae. The most popular shrine in all of Japan for New Year’s prayers. It’s a Japanese tradition to go to a shrine on one of the first days of the New Year to pray for good luck and other things in the year to come. Some Japanese are very superstitious and believe if this event is not performed they will have a terrible year. Not wanting to run the risk of having a terrible year, I went to the shrine. Even 3 days later the crowds were still large, although certainly tolerable. Again the shrine held a unique kind of atmosphere generated by the many people there. I felt a strange rush of adrenaline as I neared the front of the crowd to make my prayer. Although this might just have been nervousness at messing up the prayer ceremony. I took 5 5yen coins and threw them as an offering, I then bowed, clapped twice and bowed again. What I prayed for is secret, I wonder if anyone can guess…? Afterwards I felt strangely pure and refreshed, and happy.
Many, many, other things happened on this trip, so much that I could not possibly list it all. A trip to Ueno zoo was good fun, and we ate in many good restaurants. Hotel New Koyo was a really excellent place. It cost a mere 2700 Yen a night (About £12) for that, you got a room the size of a broom cupboard (no joke) a floor, a window, a plug socket, a tatami mat, a futon, a locker and a tv. .. Don’t say they don’t spoil you. Toilets and wash facilities were shared; there were small kitchens to prepare your own food. The place had this really great international atmosphere with people from all over the world hanging out. The hotel was kind of old and had lots of funny notices posted here and there attached to walls and ceilings and other places telling guests not to do this or that. I am of course in no way complaining. We needed a place to stay on the cheap, and we got it. A truly great place. I’ll be back.
Another odd thing we encountered was a British style pub in Roppongi. It was pretty true to the reality. Walking inside was like walking through a magic door which transports you 10000 miles to the other side of the world, into my local Wetherspoon’s in Winchester. They even had Newkie Brown!!! (That’s Newcastle Brown Ale to the uninitiated) It felt good to taste some real proper British Beer after four months of this really sweet Japanese beer, much as I like it. It was also the first time I allowed myself to get horrendously plastered, most of the time when we go out drinking I need to keep an eye on everyone else especially when travelling. But that day we were within reasonable distance of our hotel, and I didn’t have anything valuable on me, so I just went for it.
The main thing I brought back from the trip was… I WANT TO LIVE IN TOKYO!!!! That place is amazing, it’s unlike any City I’ve ever visited. It’s weird mix of foreign culture and Japanese society creates this crazy mix. It’s also really unlike anywhere else in Japan I’ve been too. If you visit Japan, don’t just go to Tokyo.
Since returning to Nishio City it’s been nice to settle back in with familiar sights and sounds although I do miss the bustle of Tokyo. The day I returned I had organised to go to a local kite festival with my English class, which was good fun, despite me being exceptionally tired from the night bus journey the night previously. Something else really good happened that day. Dr Takahama, who has become a really good friend of mine despite his eccentricities, offered to introduce me to a friend of his who runs an English school (Do you remember my post, about the ever expanding social circle? This is what it’s all about!) We met and had an informal chat. It turns out she’s short of English teachers, and she would be more than interested in hiring me on “Volunteer” terms (i.e. apartment and food, and minimal financial contributions) to work at her English school, after my work placement here at the Hospital finishes. It seems Dr Takahama was sufficiently impressed by my English classes to recommend me! I am quite pleased but also slightly embarrassed, as I have no official training in this area at all and I am not qualified in any way, which I stressed to this person most strongly. Regardless, this deal is still in the early stages, and there is every chance that nothing will come of it in the end. There are many complications when hiring foreigners as it is. Especially foreigners without a degree (yet) and on a volunteer visa. But should it work out, it will be invaluable experience in so many ways, and I would be honoured by the opportunity. I’m still looking at home stay options too and ways to pass the time between placement end and family coming to visit in April. Then after that it’ll be time to move on to backpacking in China, then after that finally, maybe time to think about coming home? I’m not sure I could. If I a degree wasn’t central to so many of my future plans, I would just stay here and make my way in the world from here. I am coming back here in the future without a doubt, most likely when I finish my degree in 2011, I could work as an ALT or something else for a while.
Another thing me and Craig discussed was the depression that one can suffer while on placement. We both went through very similar low points around the late October, early November time. After the novelty of moving to another country has worn off some hard realities really kick you in the bollocks, especially completely adjusting to an altogether different lifestyle and way of thinking. We think that is the true reality of culture shock. And different people react to it in different ways. My fellow gappers responded to it by forming a very tight friendship group that protected them from the difficulties they faced. I tried to integrate with that, and found it really didn’t suit me, which was probably the main source of the friction between my goals and theirs. Travel abroad is like this, it’ll give you some of the most intense lows you ever felt in your life, being completely isolated from all you know, and fighting to find some kind of place or way to fit into a society that is not your own. At the same time when you succeed in something it will give you more of a high than any drug could hope to. It helps you to understand your own personality and character much more than anything else.
My Dad joked several times that a gap year would prepare me for life in Manchester University. It’s not really been like that at all. University is a 100 million billion times easier than this. Ok, you may be living on your own for the first time… but you have a lovely fat loan propping you up! Your parents are no more than six hours away on the train, everyone speaks English, you understand the culture and everything about it, and you understand the social rules to abide by. There is one thing I can think of that is even more difficult than this, and that is moving to university here in Japan. I have met a few people who have tried it, and they are truly brave and extraordinary people. I don’t have the guts to make such a move. I have my heart set on Manchester. A Gap year in this country has not really prepared me in that respect, it’s taken my views and everything I know and completely shaken it up it has literally changed my life up to now. I find the life I led before this to be somewhat unsatisfactory and empty. I would recommend that anyone who can take a trip like this, you should do it!!! That being said it’s not for everyone. I’ve seen a few people burn out while they’ve been here.
Well that’s about enough from me anyway. I’ve spent over three hours writing this and it’s probably time to bring it to a close. Thank you once again to all my readers, as without you this blog would be a complete waste of (digital) space. I hope everyone at home is doing well and studying/working hard.
Please also take a look at the video I made which pretty much sums up the highlights from my trip to Tokyo, same place as usual http:/www.youtube.com/dryan5